עמוד ראשי  |  התחבר או אם אינך עדיין רשום, הרשם בחינם.
  בלוגר  
אודות
קבלת עדכונים
רוצים לקבל הודעה במייל בכל פעם שהבלוג שלי מתעדכן ?

עדכוני RSS
חיפוש
ארכיון
with students trying on the bra they made on t
10/08/2017 09:52
sdtxcvsdc

Bra long gown dress Making Workshop Fitting Day Recap!

My next two-day bra making workshop is set for March 18-19 at Three Little Birds Sewing Co. As of today it is half full so grab your spot while you still can!

This fall has been busy! In addition to swimwear manufacturer working on new patterns for 2017, over the last two months I taught three sold out bra making workshops! The most recent class at Stitch Sew Shop was my classic two-day workshop where I teach students how to construct their own  professional looking bra and how to fit the Marlborough bra to their figure. I never tire of seeing students get super excited to discover they now have the sewing superpowers to make their own bras!

I already posted a recap costume manufacturer of what the first day of my workshops looks like so I won't review that here. The second day of my two-day workshop is all about fitting, making pattern adjustments and sewing up another bra to reinforce new bra making skills so students will be able to make their own bras at home on their own after they leave class.

The second day of class starts with students trying on the bra they made on the first day of class. I examine the fit and notate any necessary pattern changes. Once the group has been fitted I walk them through how to make each pattern change and then check their work before they cut out another bra.

Pattern changes for this group included altering the bra band, removing excess material from the upper cup, increasing the cup volume and moving the straps. I have covered a couple of these changes previously (see links above) and I will be adding posts for the remainder shortly. As requested, I will also write a post on how to move the straps of the Marlborough bra since it is done a bit differently than for the Boylston bra.

For the second bra students get their pick from a variety of bra making kits ranging from a versatile beige to a hot pink to a leopard lace! As usual, the brightest and boldest kits were selected first. Of course if students still want to practice their new skills they usually have enough white material to make another white bra, but no one has ever done that!

The second bras come together much faster than the first day and once complete I provide another fitting. At this point the fit is usually quite good with only a few small refinements recommended to further fine tune the fit. Once again I notate the changes and demonstrate how to make any remaining pattern changes so students can leave class with a fitted Marlborough pattern.

In terms of the venue, Stitch Sew Shop is lovely! They use Bernina machines (my favorite) for classes. They even have my favorite iron, the Reliable i300. I love that iron so much! Their massive cutting table was also a hit. If you live in the Arlington, VA area I highly recommend checking out this beautiful shop

0 תגובות
allowance setting for your machine either writ
10/08/2017 09:52
sdtxcvsdc

How halloween costumes outlet to Get Perfect ¼” Seams for Lingerie Sewing

Once you know the ¼" seam allowance setting for your machine either write it down or, if your sewing machine allows, store it in the machines memory so you can quickly retrieve the setting as needed.

Do you have any tips for getting an accurate seam allowance? Feel free to add your suggestions to the comments!

Most lingerie sewing involves lingerie manufacturer china ¼" seam allowances. These small seam allowances make it easier than the standard garment seam allowances to sew all the curves involved in making lingerie. In fact, if your lingerie pattern has larger seam allowances, I recommend decreasing them to ¼".

Importance underwear manufacturer china of Accurate Seam Allowances

Because seam lines are not usually marked on your lingerie fabric to show you where you need to sew, being able to sew an accurate seam is important, especially when it comes to sewing bras. If you take even an extra 1/16" into the seam allowance you decrease the size of each pattern piece by 1/8" (1/16" x 2) in each direction which can significantly affect the fit.

One of the first things I do in every workshop I teach is to check each student's seam allowance to be sure they are sewing at ¼". I often see students align the edge of their presser foot with the edge of the fabric, thinking they are sewing a ¼" seam. Unless you are using a ¼" foot, that it is not the case! Every machine differs and you need to find how to achieve a ¼" seam on your machine and get that set before you start sewing the garment.

Finding the ¼" seam allowance setting

To get a ¼" seam allowance with a standard machine foot, I prefer to move the needle position so I can use the edge of the presser foot rather than finding a suitable fabric alignment point on the bed of the machine. To find the ¼" seam allowance, I put a gauge under the machine presser foot with the ¼" aligned with the edge of the presser foot as pictured below. I then move the needle position until it aligns with the zero point of the gauge. If I am setting an unfamiliar machine, I will also sew a quick test swatch just to be sure.

I prefer the needle repositioning approach because I want the feed dogs of the machine to evenly feed all the fabric where the machine is making a stitch. You can see below that if I keep the needle in the center to get a ¼" seam allowance (indicated by the pin on the ruler), the feed dogs will not be under all of the fabric. As a fan of control and good stitch quality, I like to have the feed dogs able to do their work as the sewing machine intended.

I also like using a standard machine foot since many ¼" presser feet are designed for a straight stitch only. When I am making lingerie I frequently move between straight stitches and zigzag stitches and I dont want to have to take the time to change machine feet each time I want to change the stitch.

Things to Look Out For

In addition to even feed, another great thing about using the edge of the presser foot is that you can use the helpful markings on the foot. In these pictures you can clearly see the horizontal red line on the foot that appears directly across from the needle. That horizontal line represents where the needle is entering the fabric to make a stitch. That line is the alignment point for the edge of your fabric when sewing, not the base of the foot. 

This is an important point because lingerie sewing involves a lot of curves. If you align a curvy fabric edge with the base of the foot, the fabric will likely bow inside or outside of the ¼" marker by the time the needle enters the fabric to make a stitch. It seems like a small thing but if you are taking out more or less fabric from the garment around the curves and ultimately changing the size and fit .

Commit it to Memory

0 תגובות
draw a line from the apex point to the base of
10/08/2017 09:51
sdtxcvsdc

A corsets wholesale Tutorial: How to Add Volume to Your Bra Cup It does have an apex marking on the upper cup. To create the apex marking on the lower cup simply walk the seams to find the corresponding position on the lower cup and mark it!

You are wholesale halloween costumes in the home stretch of fitting your custom made bra and you just need a little more room in the cup. Key Indicator? There is a bit of a "flat spot" at the base of the bra cup while the upper cup looks a bit small or tight.

If the rest of the bra fits well, a flat wholesale christmas costumes spot at the base of the cup is generally the result of insufficient volume which prevents the breasts from fully sinking into the cups. If the breasts can not drop to the base of the cup, the breast is forced upwards which makes the upper cup look too small. Often the answer is to go up a cup size, but if you tried going up a cup size only to find it too large, this bra sewing tutorial may be the solution for you!

To add to the lower cup of the bra we are going to split the lower cup and add volume along the new seam line. I am going to use the lower cup from the Marlborough bra sewing pattern to show this alteration step-by-step:

First you will need to determine how much extra room you need to add to the cup. You can do this by examining the dimensions of the flat spot at the very base of the cup because that is roughly the amount of volume that you need to add. Note that I do not recommend this alteration if you need to add more than ¾". If that is the case, you really should go up a cup size.Divide the amount of the lower cup increase by 2. In this example I am adding ½" which when divided by 2 equals ¼". This is the amount you will be increasing each lower cup.To split the lower cup, draw a line from the apex point to the base of the cup. This line is drawn parallel to the stretch arrow. (Note: if your lower cup does not have an apex point marking, add one!)Measure from seam line to seam line to find the mid point of the line you drew in step 3. Mark this point.Cut along the line you drew in step 3 and tape the pattern pieces to pattern paper so you can expand along the cut line.From the center point marking you made in step 4, measure out the amount of the increase you calculated in step 2. In this example I am using ¼".Draw in a new seam line. Remember, all pattern changes are made from the seam line, not the cutting line!Add ¼" seam allowance and draw in a new cutting line. Then trace over the seam and cutting lines from one side to the other so you know they match and extend the mid point line from step 4 to be the construction joining notch.Finally, mark the revised lower cup pieces so you understand their directionality and placement in the final bra.
Did you know that altering the cups is actually the last fitting adjustment you should make? If you want to learn more about pattern alterations for bra fitting get my book where I take you through my systematic fitting process and the most common pattern adjustments!

The A to DD Marlborough size range does not have an apex mark on the lower cup.

0 תגובות